The Seychelles islands lie spattered across the Indian Ocean as though flicked there by a painter's brush. Each is a drop of green, punctured by grey granite outcrops and rimmed in white sand. The trade winds are soft through the coconut fronds, the frangipani smells sweetly at nightfall when astonishingly dramatic violet and orange sunsets pattern the sky, and at quiet moments in the day the islands' rare birds will dart out of the trees to inspect you. Everything on these unspoilt islands seems friendly, courteous and clean. The land gives generously with coconuts, mangoes, bananas, breadfruit, pineapples, and an equally bountiful sea yields up tuna, snapper, barracuda and kingfish. Copra and cinnamon are the main exports but the islands' tourism is the chief source of income. The granite outcrops are unique to the Seychelles. Eons ago, India was joined to Africa. The shores receded, the ocean advanced.

The Seychelles archipelago, where coral has formed around granite remains, is evidence of this ancient geological change. The main group of islands is granitic but about 60 others are coralline, low-lying and covered with dense vegetation. These include Aldabra, with the world's largest tropical lagoon.

A hundred islands and islets make up the Seychelles, yet the total land area is a mere 454 sq km (175 sq miles). The archipelago lies 1,600 km (1,000 miles) east of Mombasa, 4 degrees south of the equator. The population numbers nearly 70,000 Seychellois, of French, English, Indian, Chinese and African origin. Among themselves, most Seychellois speak Creole, a French patois. Nine out of ten live on Mahé, the largest island, 27 km (17 miles) long and 8 km (5 miles) wide, with Victoria as the capital city. Most of the hotels are on this island, but even so it's far from crowded since the coastline boasts 68 beaches and coves. There's a good international airport on Mahé and an excellent deep-water harbour. The Morne Mountains form a backdrop to the town, a region of threading streams, ferns and moss tempered by smooth boulders.

On the less inhabited islands is an abundance of rare birds and plants, giant tortoises, turtles and spectacular tropical fish. Snorkelling here is usually known as goggling, and "goggle" you will at the brilliant underwater ballets going on in the coral gardens. Most famous of all the Seychelles' rare plant species is the giant, legendary aphrodisiac coco-de-mer palm. This is a gentle world, where the insects are strictly non-poisonous, there are no snakes, and even the fish are unafraid of men. The most explosive sight you'll see is a flamboyant tree in full scarlet bloom, or a bougainvillaea vine pouring over a wall in a cascade of molten purple.Early times
The Arabs certainly know these islands from the 9th century on but most shipping clings to the safer waters of the African coast.

Airport Mahé airport is 10 km (6 miles) southeast of Victoria. Banks Open Monday to Friday 8.30 a.m.–1 p.m., Saturdays 8.30–11.00 a.m. Climate The islands lie outside the cyclone belt but receive monsoon rains from November to February with the northwest trade winds. This hot and humid season gives way to a period of cooler weather though the temperature rarely falls below 23°.

Clothing
Cotton is best. Evening wear is informal (lightweight jackets for men, skirts for women). Beach clothes are not worn in town. You won't need a raincoat but an umbrella is a good idea.

Credit cards
American Express and Visa cards are widely accepted. If you have another card, check with the company beforehand.

Currency
Seychellois rupee, divided into 100 cents. Coins range from 5 cents to SRs 5; banknotes from SRs 10 to 100. US dollars are normally also accepted, and travellers cheques are accepted in hotels, restaurants and shops.

Customs Allowance
Free import of 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 250g of tobacco; 2 litres of spirits or wines; 200ml of perfume or eau de toilette; other dutiable goods not exceeding SRs 1000.

Driving
Traffic drives on the left. There are paved roads only on Mahé, Praslin and La Digue; elsewhere the roads are sandy tracks.

Electricity
240 V AC, 50 Hz. British-type plugs with 3 flat pins are used.

Health
Health facilities, hygiene and disease risk vary worldwide. You should take health advice about your specific needs as early as possible through either your general practitioner or a specialist clinic.

Holidays January 1, Easter, May 1, May 29 (Corpus Christi), June 5 (Liberation Day), June 29 (Independence Day), August 15 (Assumption), November 1 (All Saints' Day), December 8 (Immaculate Conception), December 25. Language The official language is Creole. English and French are widely spoken. Media English-language newspapers include The Seychelles Nation (morning daily) and the Seychelles Weekend Nation, The People (monthly) and Seychelles Review (monthly news review).

Passport
Kuoni can advise passport and visa requirements only for British and Irish passport holders at the time of booking. For non-British passport holders and for British passports endorsed in any way, requirements should be checked with the nearest relevant embassy.

Shops
Open Monday to Friday 8 a.m.–5 p.m., Saturdays 8 a.m.–noon. Some shops close on weekdays noon–1 p.m.

Telephone
Direct dialling is available for international calls. To make an overseas call, dial 0, then the country code (44 for UK), area code without the initial zero and local number.

Time
GMT + 4.

Tipping
In addition to service charge, waiters are customarily tipped an extra 5–10 per cent. Taxi drivers, too.

Tourist Information
www.seychelles.uk.com

Transport There is regular bus service on Mahé between the rural areas and Victoria. A bus service also operates on Praslin and La Digue. Coaches are available for airport transfers and excursions and are reasonable. Taxis have government-controlled rates. Water Tap water is chlorinated, but bottled water is advised.